How to Lace Shoes: Common Methods and How Much Length They Use

Most people learned how to lace shoes as a child: criss-cross, from bottom to top. That works fine, but it is not the only way. With a different lacing method a dress shoe sits tighter, your heel stays in place better or a pressure point on your instep disappears. Each method does use a different amount of lace. In this guide you will learn which methods are common, when to use them and what they mean for the length of your lace.

In short

• Criss-cross lacing works on almost every shoe and is the starting point for lace length.
• Straight lacing gives dress shoes a clean, calm look and uses the same amount of lace.
• Ladder lacing holds most securely but uses clearly more lace. Go one step longer.
• A heel lock through the extra eyelet at the top keeps your heel from slipping in running shoes.
• Skipping a crossing takes away a pressure point on your instep.

How to lace shoes: the methods at a glance

Criss-cross lacing is the starting point. The lengths in our shoelace length guide assume regular criss-cross lacing. This table shows whether another method uses more or less lace.

Method	Suitable for	Length compared to criss-cross
Criss-cross lacing	Almost all shoes	Starting point
Straight lacing	Dress shoes	About the same
Ladder lacing	Boots and work shoes	Clearly more
Heel lock with the extra eyelets	Running and sports shoes	Slightly more
Skipping the top eyelet	Laces that are too short, low shoes	Less
Skipping an eyelet at a pressure point	High instep or wide foot	About the same or slightly less

Criss-cross lacing: the standard

With criss-cross lacing you thread the lace from the top down through the first pair of eyelets at the bottom. Then you cross the ends over the tongue each time and thread them into the next pair of eyelets, until you reach the top. The result is a symmetrical pattern of crosses that spreads the pressure evenly across your foot.

If you want the lace to lie as flat as possible, thread it from the top down through the eyelet at every crossing. That way the lace sits on top of the eyelet edge and rubs less. With flat laces, keep the flat side facing up every time. Criss-cross lacing works with every shape, from basic flat laces to round and oval laces.

Replacing your laces? The full step-by-step guide is in how to replace shoelaces.

Straight lacing: neat and tidy for dress shoes

With straight lacing you see no crosses on the outside, only straight bars across the shoe. The lace runs up on the inside of the shoe to the next eyelet and crosses straight over there. That gives the clean, calm look that belongs on an Oxford or Derby.

Straight lacing uses about as much lace as criss-cross lacing. Because dress shoes have few eyelets and are tied tightly, a short lace is usually enough. For most dress shoes with 4 to 5 pairs of eyelets, 100 cm is the right length. A waxed round lace of 3 mm or a thin flat lace of 4 mm fits the small eyelets best. You will find more laces for this type of shoe under business shoes.

Ladder lacing: extra secure for boots and work shoes

With ladder lacing the lace runs vertically along the eyelets on the outside. You thread each horizontal section under those vertical sections. This creates a pattern that looks like the rungs of a ladder. The lacing holds very firmly and barely shifts, even under heavy use.

That firmness comes at a price: ladder lacing uses clearly more lace than criss-cross lacing. So with this method, choose one step longer than you normally would. Veter.nl carries lengths up to 180 cm. For work shoes and low boots that is usually enough, but on tall shoes with many eyelets, ladder lacing can need more than that. A sturdy round lace works well for this method, such as basic round laces or outdoor laces of 5 mm. You will find more choice under work shoes.

Heel lock: using the extra eyelets at the top

Many running and sports shoes have an extra eyelet at the top that sits slightly further back. That eyelet is meant for the heel lock, also known as the runner’s loop. On each side you thread the lace from the outside in through the extra eyelet, creating a small loop. Then you pass each end through the loop on the opposite side and pull tight. The lace pulls the shoe more firmly around your ankle and your heel slips up and down less.

The loops use slightly more lace than regular criss-cross lacing. The length guide recommends 120 cm for running shoes and 140 cm if you use an extra lacing technique. Basic oval laces of 6 mm suit running shoes well, because they tighten smoothly and hold the knot. You will find more laces for this type of shoe under running shoes.

Skipping the top eyelet

If you leave the top pair of eyelets empty, you need less lace. That is a handy solution when your laces are just too short. It can also feel comfortable on low shoes that you like to wear a little looser. Keep in mind that the shoe then gives less support around your ankle.

Skipping an eyelet at a pressure point

If you have a high instep or a wide foot, a crossing can press in exactly the wrong place. In that case, skip the crossing at that height. The lace then runs straight up on both sides to the next eyelet. Only then do you continue crossing. This leaves a small gap in the lacing, which takes the pressure off that spot. It uses about as much lace as criss-cross lacing, or slightly less.

Which length should you choose with a different method?

Start with the length that matches your shoe in our shoelace length guide. If you use a method that takes more lace, such as ladder lacing or a heel lock, go one step longer on the length ladder of 60, 80, 100, 120, 140, 160 and 180 cm. If you skip the top eyelet, you can often go one step shorter. If in doubt, choose the longer option. A lace that is slightly too long can be fixed with a double bow. A lace that is too short cannot.

Frequently asked questions

Which lacing method is best?

For most shoes, criss-cross lacing is the best choice. It spreads the pressure evenly and uses relatively little lace. Only choose another method if you have a clear reason, such as a smart look, a heel that slips or a pressure point.

Should I thread the lace over or under through the eyelet?

Preferably thread the lace from the top down through the eyelet. The lace then sits on top of the edge and wears less quickly. Do it the same way on both sides, otherwise the pattern becomes uneven.

What is the extra eyelet at the top of my sports shoe for?

That eyelet is meant for a heel lock. It makes the shoe sit more firmly around your ankle so your heel slips less. If you do not use it, it can simply stay empty.

Does straight lacing work on sneakers too?

Yes, straight lacing works on any shoe. On sneakers it gives a clean, minimalist look. Because it uses as much lace as criss-cross lacing, you can keep the same length.

Ready to relace? Choose the shape and width that suit your shoe under laces by type.