Which Laces for Dress Shoes? Length, Thickness and Colour

On a dress shoe, the wrong lace stands out immediately. Too thick, too long or the wrong colour and the polished look is gone. Fortunately the rules are simple. In this guide you will learn which laces for dress shoes work best: which thickness and shape to choose, how to choose the right length, which colour to pick and how to lace for a clean finish.

In short

• For dress shoes, choose a waxed round lace of 3 mm or a narrow flat lace of 4 mm.
• Most dress shoes with 4 to 5 pairs of eyelets take 100 cm.
• Straight lacing looks neatest, especially on an Oxford.
• Match the colour of the lace to the leather. If in doubt, go slightly darker.
• Leather laces suit Derbies and casual leather shoes, not a formal Oxford.

Oxford or Derby: look at your shoe first

Lace-up dress shoes fall roughly into two families. On an Oxford, the flaps with the eyelets are stitched underneath the vamp. This is called closed lacing. The flaps close almost completely and the lace forms a neat pattern on a narrow strip. On a Derby, the flaps are stitched on top of the vamp. This is called open lacing. The shoe opens further and feels a little roomier.

That difference helps decide which lace and which lacing look best. An Oxford calls for a lace that is as thin and sleek as possible. A Derby gives you a bit more freedom, because the shoe already looks less formal.

Which laces for dress shoes: thin round or narrow flat?

For dress shoes, choose a lace that suits the small eyelets and the slim silhouette. There are two good options.

Lace	Thickness	Look	Best for
Round and waxed	3 mm	Sleek, smooth and formal	Oxfords, suit shoes, shoes for a wedding or gala
Flat and thin	4 mm	Slightly fuller, still refined	Derbies, office shoes, smart casual

A waxed round lace of 3 mm is the classic choice. It comes in 80, 100 and 120 cm. The wax coating makes the lace smooth and firm, so it sits tight in the eyelet and does not fluff up. If you prefer a flat lace, go for thin laces of 4 mm. They fit through small eyelets and still look refined. If your shoe has larger eyelets, as many Derbies do, a waxed flat lace of 8 mm works too. Look at the original lace: flat eyelets call for a flat lace, round eyelets for a round one. In the small eyelets of an Oxford an 8 mm lace folds over and makes the shoe look clunky.

Which length do you need?

Dress shoes have few eyelets and are tied tightly. That is why you need a shorter lace here than for a sneaker. A lace that is too long leaves big loops and long ends. On a dress shoe that quickly looks sloppy.

Situation	Length
Most dress shoes, with 4 to 5 pairs of eyelets	100 cm
Few eyelets or laced very tightly	80 cm
Laced loosely or with a double bow	120 cm

If in doubt, count the eyelets on one side and use the calculator in our shoelace length guide. When unsure, go slightly too long rather than too short. A lace that is a little long can be tidied away with a smaller bow, a lace that is too short cannot.

Straight lacing for a clean finish

Most shoes are laced criss-cross. On a dress shoe, especially an Oxford, straight lacing looks neater. The lace runs as horizontal bars between the eyelets, without any crossings on top. That makes the shoe look calmer and more formal.

To do this, each end runs up two eyelets on the inside and then goes straight across to the other side. The step-by-step guide is in how to replace shoelaces.

On a Derby you can simply lace criss-cross too. Because the flaps sit further apart there, the difference is less noticeable.

Which colour should you choose?

For dress shoes there is a simple style rule: match the lace to the leather. With black shoes, choose black laces. With brown shoes, choose a shade of brown as close as possible to the colour of the leather. If you cannot find the exact shade, go slightly darker rather than lighter. A lace that is lighter than the leather draws attention to the lacing.

If you deliberately want an accent, for example at a wedding or a party, a contrasting colour can make a statement. Do that on a shoe that is already a little less formal, such as a Derby or a brogue.

Do leather laces suit dress shoes?

Yes on casual leather shoes and Derbies, usually not on a formal Oxford. Leather laces give a rugged, crafted look. They suit casual leather shoes, Derbies and boat shoes. Leather laces of 8 mm with metal aglets suit dress shoes with regular eyelets. In the small eyelets of a formal Oxford they are often too wide. For suits and black tie, a thin waxed lace remains the best choice.

Frequently asked questions

How thick should a lace for dress shoes be?

Choose a round lace of about 3 mm or a flat lace of about 4 mm. Thicker laces often do not fit well through the small eyelets of a dress shoe.

Why are dress shoe laces often waxed?

The wax coating makes the lace smooth and firm. It sits tight in the eyelet, fluffs up less and stays looking neat for longer.

My new laces are too long. What now?

Tie a smaller bow or a double bow. If the ends are still long, choose a shorter length next time. For dress shoes that is usually 100 or 80 cm.

Which laces suit wedding shoes?

For most wedding shoes, a thin waxed round lace in the same colour as the leather works best. It looks sleek and calm in photos.

Looking for new laces for your suit or office shoes? Browse all suitable laces under laces for dress shoes.